Traditionally, suit jackets were fully canvassed, meaning they were constructed with a layer of canvas stitched between the outer layer and the lining. In a fully canvassed jacket, the internal structure, the canvas, runs from the top of the shoulder to the bottom hem and under the lapel, the purpose of which is to provide the jacket with structure and to prevent deformation and sagging. This form of structuring is expensive both in terms of the materials used and the labour involved to create it. There is also a risk that if the canvas is poorly-inserted or shrinks after insertion the front of the suit will pucker which is almost impossible to fix on a completed garment.
With the development of fusible materials an increasing number of fused suit jackets have appeared on the commercial market. Fusible fabrics comprise a heat sensitive resin which allows them to be effectively “fused” to the outer layer of the front portion of the jacket without stitching. In fused suit jackets, the fusing replaces the canvas portion of the internal structure. The fusing starts at approximately the top of the shoulder and runs down to the bottom hem and under the lapel. The only canvas that is kept is a chest piece that does not extend to the lapels and stops under the arm to reinforce the shape of the garment. The risk of using fusible materials is that if heat, or steam, is applied to the suit, for example during dry cleaning or in a humid atmosphere, the internal structure, in this case the fusing material, can become detached from the outer layer. This effect is known as “bubbling” and is permanent. The direct attachment of the fusible material to the front of the jacket has a stiffening effect on the material which does not provide the same support as the fully-canvassed suit. Also since there is no canvassing in the lapels this gives them a flat and lifeless look.
More recently, half-canvassed suit jackets have been developed. In half-canvassed jackets the internal structure comprises a chest piece that starts at approximately the top of the shoulder, extends under the lapel and ends approximately half-way down the length of the front portion of the jacket. It also contains fusing that runs from the top of the shoulder all the way down to the bottom seam without extending under the lapel. Since this form of structuring comprises of fusible material it also causes the front of the jacket to stiffen and runs the risk of bubbling.
It is desirable to improve the fit and comfort of the suit and to reduce the weight while also reducing the effects of bubbling in order to increase the longevity of the suit. In the past, research has involved developing new resin for fusible materials which can then be applied to the whole of the suit while reducing its sensitivity to bubbling.